Home' Clinical Aesthetics : CA Issue 5 Contents Ultraceuticals Real Visible Results (RVR) 90 is a protocol designed to demonstrate to clients
that real, lasting results take time and commitment. It is a combination of a customised
in-clinic skin consultation, paramedical treatments using products for the client's specific
condition and at-home cosmeceutical skincare that must be diligently used according to
directions. Therapists are advised to offer an after-care service. ULTRACEUTICALS.COM
Cosmelan is a clinical peel commonly used to treat pigmentation issues such as the
notoriously difficult to manage melisma (aka the "mask of pregnancy, but a hallmark of
other hormonal fluctuations compounded by UV damage). It inhibits tyronase, an enzyme
of the melanin formation process. A Cosmelan peel involves two in-clinic masks -- one for
full face and then another "touch up" a month or so after the first to address remaining
pigmentation, combined with an at-home regimen. ADVANCEDCOSMECEUTICALS.COM.AU
Matoyla Kollaras, distributor in Australia
for Christina Cosmeceuticals professional
protocols and home skincare regimens,
and Christina Forte professional peeling
systems, says many professionals who use
the range do so because they are averse to
performing aggressive peels, as are their
clients to undergo them.
"I don't believe aggressive skin peels are
worth it because treatment outcomes are
not significantly better than less aggressive
peels, and neither is the risk of side effects
worth it," says Matoyla.
"I also don't feel the pain, recovery or
downtime are worth the improvement in
skin texture or increase in collagen.
"Aggressive peels can lead to deep skin
injury, and deep injury causes prolonged
healing and may cause scarring.
"In some cases you may also see a sharp
demarcation where the peel ended -- both
unsightly and difficult to correct.
"The first consideration is skin colour:
deep peels, and even some medium peels,
are usually contraindicated in Asian and
darker skin tones.
"Deep chemical peels require a full week
(sometimes two weeks) of isolation with
patients/clients often taking time off work,
avoiding the sun, skipping regular home
care, and avoiding exercise.
"This is all aside from the pain involved,
requiring a spray bottle of water kept in the
refrigerator to cool and calm the skin and
maximum doses of painkillers.
"In addition, there is the risk of swelling
and secondary infection, as the skin is left
vulnerable to the elements. There is also the
risk of longterm skin sensitivity.
"However, my main concern with
deep and aggressive peels is the risk
of hypopigmentation. Those who
have undergone deep peels where
depigmentation has occurred must forever
avoid exposing the affected skin sunlight.
"My recommendation is light peels
to "chip away" at acne, ageing and
pigmentation, done on a weekly basis for as
long as required to achieve desired results.
Doing light peels more often gives the
same results as one big, deep peel without
the isolation, pain, downtime, interruption
in routine or the risks that can be involved.
"Christina Forte peels are not raw acids.
They have been formulated carefully to
minimise risks and contain antioxidants,
anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial
ingredients that promote immediate repair
on a microscopic level.
"Finally, pre and post care is important
so that the skin can be well prepared for the
treatment and to expedite recovery time.
"Ideally, recommend to clients a
home maintenance skincare range that is
compatible with the professional peel."
THE SKIN PEEL INDEX
Phenol peels and aggressive deep CO2
laser resurfacing cause the deepest injury
of any peels and so can cause permanent
skin lightening/hypopigmentation, and thus
should only be used on very light complexions.
Next is TCA (trichloroacetic acid) at
Layering less aggressive peeling agents
like Jessner or glycolic acid 70% with 25%
TCA is another option.
15-30% glycolic, 10-15% TCA, 5-10%
LHA and 20-30% salicylic acid are the
typical "lunchtime peel" agents.
often gives the
same results as
one big, deep
routine or the
risks that can
14 | CLINICAL AESTHETICS
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